La Costanera

One word best describes the Peruvian fusion cuisine and ocean view at La Costanera: magnifico. The restaurant seems right at home on the Half Moon Bay coast, perhaps because—like California—Peru has its own long coastline, inland mountains and fertile farmland.

In Montara, farms line the Coast Highway and Coast Range mountains rise to the north and east, but once inside the restaurant—a former Chart House that’s been extensively remodeled to open up the views—all you can see are the small beach just below and the ocean beyond. Only the Cliff House in San Francisco has a more spellbinding view of the sea in the Bay Area. Contemporary, ethnic fine dining on the sleepy San Mateo County coast? Who could have guessed?

The servers, most of them with Peruvian lineage, are eager to educate newcomers on the distinctive cuisine, which sources ingredients from both Peru and local farms. You’ll be quite satisfied ordering several small plates to share with others at the table without even glancing at the entrees, which only account for a quarter of the menu items.

Following a starter such as the Crema de Zapallo (creamy pumpkin soup with shrimp, corn and queso fresco), move on to a Cebiche, the national dish of Peru. The Cebiches are quick-marinated in lime juice and peppers, and served with Peruvian corn, cancha and camote. The Cebiche Mixto (halibut, calamari, prawns and red onions) is a treat. Then try one of the other types of traditional Peruvian side dishes: Causas (potato dishes), Anticuchos (skewers), Chicharrones (crispy items) or Tapas (a variety of small plates that emphasize fish).

Ordering an entrée, as good as they are, is a little like taking sand to the beach after relishing these small plates. But if you do, a good choice is the Pescado a lo Macho (fish and shellfish braised in a spicy aji rocoto-tomato base). Oh, and don’t forgot to order a Pisco Sour. They are to Peru what margaritas are to Mexico and they even share a similar taste, but with regional bitters instead of tequila.

From any table in the restaurant, you can watch the sun set over the ocean if you time it right. In every way, there is no more romantic restaurant on the coast than La Costanera—and you can imagine you’re dining in a waterfront restaurant in Lima, another great city on the Pacific.

HelloSanFrancisco tip: If you come during Happy Hour (nightly from 5-7 p.m. and all evening on Tuesdays), they’re just $5—or order one at the first-level Pisco Bar, where you can drink indoors or beside the fire on the patio.

- by Bob Cooper, San Francisco Reporter for HelloMetro  (Click to leave a message)

Bob Cooper

Bob Cooper is a full-time freelance writer (www.bob-cooper.com) who writes about travel, outdoor sports and health. He is a monthly contributor to Runner's World and has written recent articles for other national magazines such as Continental, Ladies' Home Journal and Inc.